'Finding our European roots' by Marvic

Albeit in reverse, Peter Tosh sings about the way I felt a lot of the time while growing up in South Africa with my pale skin - I felt out of place in my country of birth. The old apartheid "European Only" signs indicated that a white skin meant that we were European, but we felt African. So, who and what are we?

Two of the biggest European influences on South Africa have come from Holland and England. The Dutch arrived in the 17th Century and the British at the dawn of the 1800's. Our years in Holland have given us a fair opportunity to discover this country, which is smaller than the Kruger National Park. The most obvious similarities are names of cities and towns that you also find on the South African map and of course Afrikaans (one of South Africa's 11 official languages), which stems from 300 year old Dutch.

South African history is therefore entwined with European culture, so in June 2004, we embarked on a quest to discover the similarities and differences between South Africa, Holland and England :-)

Filled with good humour, we set off on our adventure and not even slogging through rush hour traffic could dampen our holiday mood. Naturally it gave us plenty of opportunity to begin comparing notes.

Holland's landscape is very flat. In fact, it's so flat that when I took my Dutch driver's licence, I needed to do the hand-break takeoff on an access ramp; luckily it was well-controlled ('ramp' in Dutch means disaster...). Driving through the countryside in The Netherlands somehow reminds us of the Karoo. Just a lot greener. With well-fed cows, chewing the cud contentedly. And sleeping horses. Did you know they actually do sleep lying down? And of course there are loads of sheep. Remember that succulent Karoo lamb? Yummy.

The biggest difference between Holland and South Africa is water. South Africa is sunny and dry - Holland is the land of water. The cities in Holland just ooze history out of every nook or crevice. We vote Amsterdam as one of the most beautiful cities in the world. Its canals and willows accentuate the stunning Dutch gables on centuries-old buildings.

We swiftly moved on through Belgium - not very different to Holland. But hey - we're in another country! Like driving from Gauteng to the Free State. Back then it didn't seem so exotic travelling through the various provinces in South Africa, as it was "just South Africa" - the same country. But the regions and provinces are so different to each other, you could easily be travelling through a multitude of countries. A world in 1 country!

We headed into France. Just having watched the WWII memorial service, we were excited to be leaving the Continent from Dunkerque. We had organised a late arrival with the hotel, but with 10 minutes to spare and panicking slightly, we got lost. In France. In love (from the song ... he he). The hotel staff didn't speak English or Dutch, but kindly handed the phone to an English guest who gave us directions. That's when it really strikes you that you're in a different country!
An early start to catch the ferry to Dover. I'd been wanting to see the White Cliffs as far back as I can remember. All the ol' English country songs from childhood, the scenic movies from whence many a soul flung themselves, and Dover Street in Randburg, with its white office block, ' White Cliffs'. The real cliffs did not disappoint. They seemed so small at first. But they loom ever closer, changing from white to a multitude of pastel hues. I was in my element!

We headed due North, past London, waved hello to Essex (where Dad was born) and ambled up country roads. The green, hilly countryside is reminiscent of Cape Town and KwaZulu Natal - no wonder they became English strongholds! Quaint is a good word to describe the scenery. All the pictures in our childhood books were appearing in front of our eyes. Scenic Christmas cards without the snow. Stone cottages and farm houses with well-fed cattle are a sharp contrast to scrawny cows and shantiy-towns dotted all over South Africa.

Skirting past Sherwood Forest, we craned our necks to spot Robin Hood, but not enough to catch an arrow. As dusk was falling, we entered Newcastle and joined our family for a private celebration. From Newcastle, we took the scenic coastal route to Edinburgh.

We love this city because it epitomises mediaeval times. Even the soot on the buildings is centuries old. The city-tour bus is an absolute must, with its dramatic recall of history. You can hear the cry of people on the bandwagon en-route to be hung. It's quite eerie and mystical and soars your imagination.

As a South African/Dutch couple speaking English, dining in an Italian restaurant in Scotland, served by a French waiter, perhaps the world is too small to worry about nationalities?

We stopped at Firth Bridge. Hmm! Impressive piece of engineering. The high road or low road? We wanted to pop in and visit Nessie at Drumnadrochi, so we decided on the high road to Inverness and then back down the other side of the Loch. The more North we went the more isolated the roads became, dejavue from our road trip in SA, the Northern Cape is just as lonely.

But warmer. Midsummer, you think you wouldn't need a jersey? We didn't pack one! Brrr. A quick purchase was necessary. We missed the last Nessie-ferry by two minutes. We tried to find her from the roadside, but I guess she was on the other side. So we went to the pub for a whisky instead. But what a gorgeous region. A definite must-come-back!

We needed to "fly south" for our return trip, as we were spending the night in Brighton. So munching on our shortbread, we sped (safely) through the hills and vales around the lochs. The images still flash before my eyes - perhaps the Hex River Valley is comparable ... Passed Glasgow and then back into England. We love the criss-crossing low stone walls.

A hectic day of solid driving followed - 12 hours in the car, with just enough time to get in a fast-lunch. The English countryside is reminscent of South Africa, but seems to have a softer feel. Perhaps the light is softer? SA seems so bright and sharp and intense.

Fortunately it was still light when we arrived in Brighton, and no it wasn't just a reflection from the pier. We could take a good look round. Our hotel was grand, on the corner, right in front on the esplanade. Definite old-school Colonial feel. Popular with the old-folks. Optimistically I brought my cossie (swimsuit) for a dip in the sea. We took a look at the murky water and promptly changed our minds. Oh, the beaches in SA ...

The rest of Brighton reminded us of any Jo'burg or Cape Town suburb. Same style houses, gardens, parks, road signs, it was quite startling. The pier did seem a little cheesy though, like a freeze-frame from the 70's. We had an amazing dinner at a Thai restaurant where you could also buy the decor and furniture, like the one in Riebeek's Kasteel during our SA road trip.

Our last day of the whirlwind tour was another mammoth 12-hour day of driving. Back over on the ferry to Dunkerque. Then retracing our steps, we contemplated our past, our present and the future. Had we achieved our goal? Did we feel more European? Could we see where we came from? The influences that have affected our lives?

Yeah, I'd nodded cautiously. Well we're certainly a few steps closer. It has helped seeing how South Africa has been influenced and the saying, "to know where you are going, you must know where you have come from" rings true. A lot of what we have seen feels like home.

It's so familiar and at first glance we belong here. People assume we're local. Until we start speaking and our accents and expressions betray us. A merging of South African, English, Dutch, and worldwide exposure, sometimes we're even mistaken for Australians or Americans. Obviously not by Australians or Americans.

It is difficult to place us in a particular niche. In a multiple choice question, we'd have to reply "All of the above". My skin, parts of my upbringing and passport suggest that I'm European, but my spirit screams that I am African.

© Written for Tours and Tales by Marcel and Victoria Koning (Marvic). We promote responsible tourism and love nature and wildlife, discovering new places and different cultures.